December 12, 2021 6 min read
The spring-summer 2022 trend sample makes it clear that the new normal looks like the old normal, at least in terms of timing. Because although there are firms and creative directors who have seen in this subsection that 2020 was an opportunity for reinvention, others have preferred to continue within the Fashion Week wheel. There is no room for reproach: they continue to assume a structure at the level of exposure and monetization that is difficult to avoid. So much so that there have been a number of shows high enough to be able to outline the first trends of spring-summer 2022 here and now.
Thinking of flowers in spring and not going back to the scorn of the film Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada (2006) is difficult for those who have seen the film. But the view that the obvious doesn't deserve to be taken into account is called into question, at least according to creative directors. Because for the next season there are many flowers among the proposals of the luxury houses; flowers of all kinds that appear without shame on dresses (perhaps the most obvious bet) but also on coats, shoes or overalls, less obvious pieces. Dolce & Gabbana approaches them from the sensuality, while Lanvin from the epatante delicacy of the spaghetti straps and voluminous skirts. For its part,Erdem takes a more romantic approach that even leads to his headdresses and hats , while Richard Quinn once again emphasizes one of hismost identifying and key looks . Marni interprets them in a more graphic way, as does Giorgio Armani . They are very, very small, as in Molly Goddard, Collina Strada or Simone Rocha , or slightly deconstructed, as in Giambattista Valli. Corollary: any drawing and type will do. After all, they arespring looks.
It is true that the horizontal or even sailor striped print is such a timeless classic that a T-shirt or sweater like this often appears on the list of items in a capsule wardrobe . Its spring load is unavoidable, but that is precisely what could have led different firms to reinvent it by changing the direction of the lines. One of the first samples and clues that the vertical striped print is going massively is in Carolina Herrera New York , whose festive collection includes several dresses in black and white (be careful, because it is another trend ) that somewhat inevitably refers to a hyper-sophisticated Beetlejuice . The iconic house is joined byMarni or Victoria Beckham in a relaxed two-piece set, but also JW Anderson , who chooses lavender, or Jil Sander , who chooses peach. In addition, they can be tracked in Altuzarra, Emporio Armani, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Roksanda, Givenchy, Schiaparelli, Courrèges, Balmain, Isabel Marant ...
This is a very, very popular resource among street style for years: it creates an effective styling in a matter of seconds and, in addition, it allows to decontextualize dresses that, at another time, would be relegated to the plane of (very) special occasions. It is especially well in combining the slip dress and jeans Louis Vuitton , as well as the look of denim tulle and Toga, in addition to the satiny of Isabel Marant or colorist Collina Strada . The point is that this combination has become so widespread that other more minimalist interpretations with shirt dresses are beginning to emerge , such as that ofPeter Do or Missoni , and with short dresses , as in Fashion East or Giorgio Armani.
If you had to choose a garment that defines the summer of 2022, that would be the miniskirt in its purest version. That is to say, short, very short, in a plea of fun and hedonism that vindicates the pleasure of dressing and showing the body as you want and when you want (something very linked, in addition, to transparencies). The list of firms that have included one is tremendously long, but Prada stands out especially , since Miuccia's creations for the house do not usually abound. However, on this occasion they took part of the protagonism of a simultaneous and sexy parade . A feeling that, not so curiously, is also in Miu Miu, another of the firms that more and better has boasted of short measures. Extreme, in this case, since the waistband is placed at the hips, in a reminder of those skirts-belts from the 2000s that so many pop celebrities wore non-stop in almost any fabric. They may not be the most comfortable pattern in the world, but the visual impact they have caused makes it likely that they will slip into other more accessible brands, something that can also happen with those of Blumarine (again, low rise), Balmain , which he moves it to create a figure-slender effect, or Loewe , which uses asymmetry to add contrast to a fluffy jumper.
Or straight boxy blazers . Whatever the name used, the important thing for next season is to return to the wide patterns of marked and generous shoulder pads , in a new tailoring revisit as a symbol of optimism and also a new way of understanding empowerment . In Balenciaga you will find one of the most generous examples in terms of measurements (although the look consists only of the jacket with infinite boots), but neither should we forget that of Versace , tighter at the waist, or that of Lanvin , already that both firms propose that the blazer be used as a dress,something that also happens in Saint Laurent and Dolce & Gabbana . In Jil Sander or Proenza Schouler there are examples of more canonical costumes, as is also the case in Lemaire, Peter Do or The Row , but you should not lose sight of the Prada miniskirt combination proposals , one of the most popular shows of the season.
What would a summer season be without fabrics that reveal the body, whatever they are ? As with white or flowers, the association of transparencies with good weather and the exposure of the body is direct and known, which is why, perhaps, the designers have wanted to influence it (what has been said: traveling through common and acquaintances that provide safety and well-being). In fact, it is precisely with flowers that it is mixed in the dresses of JW Anderson and Valentino , as well as in the long skirt of Giambattista Valli , making the delicacy of both elements sublime. However, it is in its smoothest version (both in neutral and striking tones) the one that triumphs among the collections: there are theRejina Pyo, Etro, Erdem, Emporio Armani, Emilio Pucci or Dior ; dresses from Balmain, Blumarine, Molly Goddard or Chloé and riskier bets from Givenchy or Fashion East , where the fabric takes on a watery look. The special mention? Schiaparelli , thanks to a style that brings back the sensuality of Helmut Newton's images.
They are not the only color range that will be present next spring-summer 2022, but it is one that is worth highlighting, especially with regard to lilac and powdery green . Those two colors, along with a soft yellow and a good amount of light pink , have dotted a multitude of fashion shows presented in September, playing on the obvious relationships, as in Moschino or Jil Sander (two looks with a great naive charge) but also to the contrast of opposites, as in Fendi and a tighter and more aggressive styling. In that polo shirt you can also identify Givenchy and a lookexperimental, but the first team, also composed of Rodarte or Loewe , win the game . Another tone to consider? The light blue.
It is another embodiment of that enthusiasm to get dressed again that flies over the autumn-winter season 2021/2022 and that plans until the next. Continuing with that break between the day and the night, shiny and satin fabrics are worn at any time of the day, or is it not possible to imagine going to the office with the Peter Do shirt and pleated skirt set or with the minimal dress? by Jil Sander ? Even with the jacket suits (which find in these textures a way to reinvent themselves) by Etro and Fendi , or with the matching shirt with Gabriela Hearst's trousers . However, the dresses They are still the favorite piece for this type of shine, as demonstrated by those of Victoria Beckham, Halpern, Roksanda, Prabal Gurung, Erdem, Christian Siriano or Dior.
Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more …